We failed to capture what happened between our river cruise and this next serene setting. Let's just say it involved times we'd rather forget in the bathroom... times we WISH we were in the bathroom... a lot of soju... and the blatant use of the word "Grossers." For those of you who wish to know the whole story, please contact the parties involved. But be warned: some scenes are graphic.      We managed to find some peace in WonJu at Kuryong Temple, although the taxi ride up the mountain was slightly terrifying. This tiny complex was perched in the mountain mist over a steep stream. At this point, quiet relaxation was just what we needed.